Owing to the fact that there are over 1000 species in the Peperomia genus, choosing the right variety might feel like an overly daunting task to do, especially for a first-timer. If you don’t want to get agitated by failing to keep your houseplant alive, then it’d make perfect sense to start off with a variety that’s easy to plant and take care of.
And the Peperomia Clusiifolia, also known as the Jelly, is among the few varieties you won’t find trouble nurturing from scratch. Let’s check out everything you need to know so you can keep it intact, even for decades to come.
More About The Peperomia Clusiifolia
As you probably know, the Jelly belongs to the Peperomia genus and has all the natural traits of a typical tropical plant since it’s native to Central America and southern parts of Florida. It also indigenously comes from the West Indies and Mexico.
With USDA hardiness zones 10 through 12, the Jelly can be grown in a container under a surrounding with medium humidity. It can reach 6″ inches when it hits old age and the houseplant features long vines with the upbeat to trail up to 10 feet, ideally if grown in a hanging basket. You might find the Peperomia Clusiifolia being sold under the names “Peperomia Tricolor” or “Ginny Peperomia”.
It’s also popularly known as the Red Edge variety since it has a red pattern on the borders of the leaves. Oher Pepepromia you’ll probably find engrossing include:
Although this variety looks strikingly different from others, it more or less shares the same caring hacks. And while most Peperomias are slow-growing and stay compact for years, they don’t require much when it comes to the maintenance routine.
Peperomia Jelly Care Tips
Foliage & Flowering
You’ll be surprised to find how the leaves of this succulent remain sturdy and dark-green, even during the dry seasons. It yields a loose branching cluster of white flowers with spikes every spring. These spikes sprout facing the sky and only show up if your plant is in good shape.
Same to other suitable options in the Peperomia genus, the Jelly needs spaced out watering sessions. You just want to make sure the soil is moderately moist during the growing seasons. This variety has feeble leaves and roots that are prone to rotting when exposed to excess water. No matter the season, it doesn’t need too much of it to look lustrous and blooming.
If the soil is too soggy, it could be a breeding spot for bacterial and fungal diseases. If you don’t leave the soil to dry out completely between the waterings, the leaves will turn pale and ultimately wither off. Lessen the number of times you’re watering your Pepepromia Jelly during winter when the temperatures are exceedingly low.
While this plant can produce pleasing foliage naturally, fertilizer feeds your plant with all the necessary nutrients that operate as growth enhancers. Peperomias, however, thrive better with less fertilizer. Too much of it burns the leaves and causes the plant to die off in the long run.
Instead of depending on synthetic fertilizer too often, you can mix the soil with worm compost every spring. But if you choose to stick with the soluble fertilizer, use it just once a month during this season, alongside summer. Your houseplant doesn’t need any feeding when the temperatures are extremely cold, so you want to skip this routine when it’s winter.
Anytime my newly potted Peperomias are in their growth stages, I dilute the Eleanors VF-03 plant food with water and evenly pour the solution on the soil during the last weeks of spring, in the middle, and late of summer. This remedy helps your plant absorb nutrients much faster.
Soil & Transplanting
Most Peperomias, including the Jelly plant, thrive best in nutrient-rich soil with a texture that allows water to drain well. When preparing the growing medium, mix cactus soil with a portion of perlite and add sand to make the structure a lot more permeable.
Being an epiphyte, this peperomia variety grows lushly in regular potting soil, but can’t survive if the roots are soaked in water for longer periods. The Jelly plant is quite tiny so you won’t need to transplant it into a bigger container. All you need to do is replace the soil with a potting mix that’s nutrient-dense just once every year. You should carry out this exercise anytime around spring.
Light, Temperature & Humidity
The Jelly Peperomia grows plushly both in bright and filtered light. But I bet you want your houseplant to yield optimally and have no blemishes on the leaves. So if you’re looking to grow it indoors, place the container somewhere with bright but indirect light.
Too much light from the sun rays will scorch the leaves and cause the plant to die. To take care of its notably radiant foliage, this succulent needs to access the morning bright light. It also grows just fine if you place it under grow lights for about 12-15 hours. And while this plant mutates to low light conditions, the foliage color might not be as vibrant as it would potentially be if grown bright-filtered light.
When the warmer seasons check-in, your Peperomia Jelly should pull through fairly well and glow under temperatures between 18-28°C, give or take. This variety begins to experience stunted growth and suffers from common diseases when the temperatures fall below 10°C. Peperomias can keep up with hot temperatures so long as the humidity level is moderately high.
Grooming & Maintenance
The Peperomia Jelly hardly needs a rigid grooming routine. To prevent it from growing wildly without an even pattern, trim the tips of the stems—ideally during the growing seasons.
How to Propagate Your Peperomia Jelly
Once you nail at taking sufficient care of your Pepepromia Jelly, you won’t need to go back to the store to purchase a new one. You can propagate it yourself simply using leaf cuttings or through the division method.
To propagate this tropical succulent using leaf cuttings, you need to:
- Cut a healthy leaf and ensure it has an inch or two of the stem attaching it to the mother plant.
- Give the cutting a few hours so the base of the stem can dry out completely.
- Dip the tip of the stem in rooting hormone to speed up the growth of roots.
- Water the cutting, cover it with a plastic bag, and leave it so the roots can have some grace period to form. This also protects the moisture from evaporating.
- Place it under bright light conditions to boost the photosynthesis process.
- Open the plastic bag every once or twice a week to keep the roots from rotting.
- Prepare some potting soil, add organic compost, then place the cutting in the container.
- Moist the soil gently. Also, remember to place the medium somewhere with suitable light, humidity, and temperature levels.
Roughly, you should see results within 6-8 weeks. If you’re still holding onto the idea of transplanting this succulent into a bigger container, then here’s the deal—this plant develops at a slow pace, so you first want to wait for 1 year to lapse.
Common Pests & Diseases
Taking cues from the nurturing experience I’ve garnered throughout the years while taking care of my Peperomia, it’s safe to say that this plant rarely suffers from serious diseases or pest attacks.But for the most part, this plant’s well-being deteriorates gravely when you expose it to soggy soil for long.
It’s hard for this variety to recover from root rot. If the damage is way beyond repair, propagate the plant using the leaf cuttings which that are intact and healthy. The common pests you’ll highly likely have to deal with are mealybugs and spider mites.
Pests usually attack Peperomias when the indoor humidity level is low. If the infestation is extreme, use an insecticide or neem oil to suppress any insects bugging your plant.
Peperomia Jelly Benefits & Uses
This succulent doesn’t eat up too much space, so it’s a perfect indoor accessory if you’re just looking to foster a slow-growing houseplant with less nurturing demands. Peperomias are ideal for locations with bright but filtered light, say, a windowsill, or a shaded patio. You can also choose to grow it in a hanging basket and let the vines trail downwards.